So many immortals are buried at the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise in Paris — Balzac, Molière, Oscar Wilde, Proust, Max Ernst, for starters — that the witty artist Arman must rank among them as a mere mortal. But his stylish, minimalist headstone has the best epitaph of all of them. (“Alone at last!”) I saw it while hiking with a map through the vast, wooded burial ground looking for Chopin’s gravesite. A large crowd surrounded the composer’s tomb, snapping what must have been hundreds of pictures. Nobody that I saw noticed Arman’s nearby … much less stooped to take a photo. Their loss.