Doug McLennan, AJ’s founder, once told a couple of us bloggers that if you really want to get traffic on a website, write about food. Last night finally gave me an excuse — without too much of a stretch from Real Clear Arts.
The Guggenheim Museum opened the doors of its new restaurant, The Wright, to the media for a taste of what will be on offer.
And there’s another reason to write about this: Almost 10 years ago, I moderated a dialogue between Thomas Krens, then head of the Guggenheim, and Philippe de Montebello, then head of the Metropolitan Museum, for The New York Times. As part of the final article, I asked each to name the ten components of a “great 21st Century museum.” The idea came from a speech I saw Krens give. Among his answers was: “Two eating opportunities.” Food did not appear on PdM’s list.
Good excuse to talk about food here, right (no pun intended)? I didn’t ask Richard Armstrong, Krens’ successor, how he felt about the matter — though he did briefly show his face last night before leaving (probably for a real dinner!).
First the scene: the Wright is wedged into a small corner of the Guggenheim, off the rotunda, in a space that has (I believe) previously held a gift shop and then a cafe. Now it’s a real restaurant, sleek, largely white, with blue leather seating, and enlivened with a site-specific sculpture called The horizon produced by a factory once it had stopped producing views by Liam Gilick.
It seats 58 and has a large curvilinear common table running down the middle. Private tables line two sides. There’s a bar along another long wall, where you can order small plates.
The kitchen is at the far end, which is where much of last night’s crown congregated, practically accosting the waiters for a chance to try the food. Pity the poor people close to the door — the waiters rarely made it to them.
Stationed in the middle of the room, a glass of 2006 Cote du Rhone (pretty good) in hand, I managed to sample four dishes. A rich, warm parsnip soup — very creamy — went down easily, though a bowl of it would be very filling. Order a cup? Yes.
Next came something people really grabbed for: mango mousse with “exotic fruits” and coconut foam. Very yummy: the crispness of the fruits, which were at the bottom, offset the silky mousse and foam.
Next — yes, out of order, I know, but the m.o. was “try whatever was passed” — came lobster salad on a tiny brioche. Very tasty, though a little bland after the mango.
Finally, something with chocolate, also very tasty, but I never found out what it was exactly.
End of review — that’s all I was able to sample before having to leave. I never got a taste of the signature cocktail: Hangar One clementine vodka, sweet vermouth, orange juice, campari and club soda with an orange twist — The Wright.
The Guggenheim is trying to dazzle in the foodie area, and there’s nothing wrong with that. While I don’t agree with Krens that a museum needs two eating spots, one nice one is very welcome.