{"id":16039,"date":"2018-01-04T13:58:45","date_gmt":"2018-01-04T18:58:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/?p=16039"},"modified":"2018-03-03T01:47:03","modified_gmt":"2018-03-03T06:47:03","slug":"artichokes-hearts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/2018\/01\/artichokes-hearts.html","title":{"rendered":"Artichokes, Hearts"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[contextly_auto_sidebar]<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-16040\" src=\"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/artichokes_commodity-page-500x500.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/artichokes_commodity-page-500x500.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/artichokes_commodity-page-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/artichokes_commodity-page-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/artichokes_commodity-page-100x100.jpg 100w, https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/artichokes_commodity-page-200x200.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/artichokes_commodity-page.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>A while back I read that some folks\u00a0<\/strong>were plucking artichokes from farm borders off the roads in California, apparently to sell. One doesn&#8217;t immediately think that these green aardvarks are sustenance, although, indirectly, they may certainly serve. Are they delicate or rugged? All my life I&#8217;ve eaten them, but have no idea.<\/p>\n<p>False duality, anyway. Delicacy and ruggedness are not opposites at all.<\/p>\n<p>The artichoke embodies mystery, and that&#8217;s because it&#8217;s not an obvious temptation.<\/p>\n<p>The cooking-eating part of me and thinking part don&#8217;t often coincide, and I&#8217;ve never been sure just why. Constant readers may be puzzled, but it&#8217;s time for me now to claim my gaydom by throwing to the ground the primary artichoke quote. The other &#8212; <a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/kNSzZvEkoDE\">&#8220;It may have choked Artie&#8230;&#8221;<\/a> &#8212; I&#8217;ve cited before from the &#8220;Our Gang&#8221; comedies and I don&#8217;t wish to plagiarize myself, although writing anything makes that a certainty.<\/p>\n<p>Johnny Walker Lucky Strike voice, off the shoulder, over the shoulder:<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Remind me to tell you about the time I looked into the heart of an artichoke.&#8221;<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-16041\" src=\"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/7ceaee3db8c12c9b5c20d32043620b64-207x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"207\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/7ceaee3db8c12c9b5c20d32043620b64-207x300.jpg 207w, https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/7ceaee3db8c12c9b5c20d32043620b64.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 207px) 100vw, 207px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Joe Mankiewicz wrote the line seven decades or so ago in <em>All About Eve<\/em>, but she rewrote it with her lifesize Bette Davis pen.<\/p>\n<p>Her glass is in my hand. There&#8217;s many a twist and turn in a martini, but looking at the ceiling, I see something glowing and revolving, throwing off gunpowder lights from under its scaly leaves. It&#8217;s time to vegeta &#8230; celebrate!<\/p>\n<p>No one expects 2018 to be easy. How does an artichoke taste as it drops from the tower in Times Square? &#8220;Flavor,&#8221; a word that seems clear, is always vacant until filled not only with a taste of food, but with the experience of that taste. It&#8217;s rarely used when &#8220;artichoke&#8221; comes up. Ask your best friend how an artichokes tastes, and for just a second you&#8217;ll wonder why you&#8217;re friends.<\/p>\n<p>Italians are laughing, but that won&#8217;t last long. Yes, citizens of any kitchen can smash and fry the baby ones, resulting in oily, brittle Jewish versions, oh so easy to love. I am not arguing with the expensive miracles I ate in Rome, or simple plates of them,\u00a0velvety and crisp, at the long-mourned trattoria on Manhattan&#8217;s East 9th Street, Col Legno, or even potted-vinegar hearts that stopped beating as soon as their tiny glass jars appeared.<\/p>\n<p><strong>&#8220;Essence of artichoke&#8221;<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Mind-numbing, that a food, and eating it, could be distilled to a goal, made single. The globe artichoke&#8217;s essence is a paradox, because &#8230;<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m faced with a daunting problem, because no one, certainly not me, wants a lesson in plant metaphor. The first way around this is to imagine a film, black-and-white, in the style of a WWII instruction documentary, in which we watch a male or female, in white shirt or blouse, begin and end the process of negotiating, dismantling and eating a solitary choke. No smile, no telling eye-crinkle, nothing but step-by-step on a plate and side plate for the tooth-scraped leaves or petals.<\/p>\n<p>No sense from his or her robotic expression that the scraping reminds anyone who has been seriously hungry that every shred of food is crucial. I&#8217;ve always found animal comfort, and more, when looking at the tracks of my teeth on these hunger manuscripts.<\/p>\n<p>Then a uniformed hand removes the pile, and we stare at a dull, mottled navel, the part they call the heart. That&#8217;s supposed to be the target, but let&#8217;s think about this in another way. I know someone, a kind and intelligent fellow, who will not eat the good pieces of a lobster. He waits for his companions to strip and swallow the claw meat and tails and then grabs the carcasses off our plates and begins his &#8220;scraping of the teeth.&#8221; Each wet tendril, green seed-egg and pearlescent clot is coddled and sucked to moans of enjoyment. Ten, 20, even 30 minutes pass. He knows that the life of the lobster deserves full appreciation.<\/p>\n<p>We are supposed to scrape, with a spoon, the choke from the heart. My avid friend would leave the heart and eat the choke, which has a sandy flavor that&#8217;s overwhelmed by its feathery, lung-clotting texture, something that ravenous raccoons spit out. The remnant we are said to seek is left centered on the plate.<\/p>\n<p>So we lift our knifes and think to cut it. Thumbsize? Shall we eat the solid gray cipher without salt, emollient? Yes, because the heart&#8217;s the goal.<\/p>\n<p>Our instructor looks at the camera with serious eyes.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;This is the part your children will like the most.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Projector clicks to flicker, then off. I have no children, and even in my imagination the little ones would be more invested in the piecemeal taking-apart of the universe in front of them, studying, playing, not caring one whit for an adult full stop at the end.<\/p>\n<p>X\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0X\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0X<\/p>\n<p>This is dedicated to the work and memory of my dear friend and constant reader, Robin Holland.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Some vegetables are complicated <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[505,503,501,502,504,506],"class_list":{"0":"post-16039","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-main","7":"tag-505","8":"tag-all-about-eve","9":"tag-artichoke","10":"tag-bette-davis","11":"tag-new-year","12":"tag-vegetables","13":"entry","14":"has-post-thumbnail"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16039","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=16039"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16039\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16109,"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16039\/revisions\/16109"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=16039"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=16039"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.artsjournal.com\/outthere\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=16039"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}