Salami and Eggs: A Family Tale

Don't Hide the SalamiIn my college-dorm bed, I came upon this passage while first reading Vanity Fair. I was fascinated, puzzled: "Isn't it a good salmi?" she said; "I made it for you, I can make you better dishes than that: and will when you come to see me." Becky Sharp was trying to woo the dull Sir Pitt, even though she was already married. But woo with a homemade, quaintly spelled salami? I read on ... Besides the salmi, which was made of Lord Steyne's pheasants ... Does pheasant go with garlic? Did she make the mustard too? Later, much … [Read more...]

A Quasi-Kosher 4th With Yankees, Mets, Weinsteins

One of the reasons I became what people call a "food writer" was my clam-broth baptism in the behemoth, much-mourned Brooklyn restaurant called Lundy's. That fish palace on Sheepshead Bay coalesced a constellation of 20th-century American values: collective melting-pot festivity (it seated more than 3000), the promise of local unpolluted cornucopia (littlenecks and fluke from right outside, sort of), institutionalized racism (underpaid all-black staff), and working-class strife (a bloody strike). My personal … [Read more...]